The West Highland Way is probably the most popular and well-known long-distance hiking route in Scotland. It offers stunning scenery and is accessible even for beginners. Spanning 96 miles, the trail runs from Milngavie to Fort William, winding through a series of quaint villages. Every hiker’s experience on the West Highland Way is unique, with options ranging from wild camping to staying in luxurious hotels, allowing for flexibility in the number of days you take to complete it and the pace at which you hike. Regardless of how you choose to tackle this trail, you're guaranteed a gorgeous walk enriched by a rich cultural experience.
Distance: 96 miles (154 km)
Elevation gain: 3,155 metres (10,351 ft)
Location: Highlands of Scotland
Starting point: Milngavie, Scotland
Ending point: Fort William, Scotland
PLANNING YOUR HIKE
Best time to hike the West Highland Way
I believe the most popular time to hike the West Highland Way is during the summer months, from June to August. During this period, you'll enjoy the warmest weather and the longest daylight hours, making for ideal hiking conditions. However, this is also when the trail is busiest, so it's important to book accommodations well in advance. While you might encounter more hikers and an increased presence of midges, which are small noying insects, the rewards are abundant: lush landscapes and wildflowers in full bloom, creating a vibrant and picturesque backdrop for your journey.
If you prefer a more tranquil hiking experience, consider the shoulder seasons of April to May or September. During these times, you'll encounter fewer hikers and significantly fewer midges than in the summer. The weather will be cooler, but the trade-off is well worth it for the serenity and natural beauty. In September, you’ll also be treated to stunning autumn colours, adding a picturesque charm to your journey.
I would only recommend doing the West Highland Way in winter if you’re super experienced.
No matter when you choose to hike, the Scottish weather can be unpredictable. Always be prepared for rain and rapidly changing conditions, which I'll discuss in more detail later.
I personally hiked the West Highland Way in late April and was fortunate to experience only one day of rain during the entire week. However, despite the frequent sunshine, it still felt quite cold, necessitating heavier clothing to stay warm. While I did not encounter any midges, I found the trail not as quiet as I imagined. I met fellow hikers occasionally throughout my journey. I couldn’t imagine what it would be like during peak season. Additionally, I didn’t need to plan too far in advance and was able to find accommodations and places to eat without any issues.
How to get to the starting point
Getting to Milngavie, the starting point of the West Highland Way, is straightforward. The most common route is to take a train from Glasgow. Trains to Milngavie run frequently from Glasgow Queen Street Station and the journey takes about 25 minutes. Alternatively, there are regular bus services from Glasgow to Milngavie. Buses leave from Buchanan Bus Station and the journey takes about 45 minutes.
Once you arrive in Milngavie, the start of the West Highland Way is well-signposted and easy to find. The trail begins at the obelisk in Milngavie town centre, just a short walk from the train and bus stations.
How to get to the endpoint
Fort William is easily accessible via public transport, with regular train services connecting it to Glasgow Queen Street Station. The journey spans approximately 3 hours and showcases stunning scenery along the route, allowing you to reminisce about the breathtaking landscapes you've encountered during your West Highland Way trek.
How many days do you need for the West Highland Way
Typically, hikers complete the West Highland Way in about 6 to 9 days. However, the duration can vary based on individual preferences, fitness levels, and itinerary. I will list out some sample itineraries later on.
PREPARING FOR YOUR HIKE
How difficult is this hike?
The West Highland Way includes a mix of terrain types, from well-maintained footpaths and old military roads to rocky, uneven ground and steep ascents and descents. Regular hikers will find the trail manageable. I found the part along Loch Lomond to be the most rocky and uneven. Otherwise, the trail is generally flat with mild elevation.
West Highland Way is also very well-marked. You'll find signposts and markers at regular intervals, making it easy to follow the path. You are still encouraged to bring a paper map or download an offline map to your phone beforehand and familiarize yourself with the route before you start.
While the trail is not technical, the most challenging and demanding aspect that most would find is probably walking long distances with a heavy backpack. Thus, a moderate level of fitness is recommended. I like to think of myself as an experienced day hiker, but I still found myself struggling at times due to the heavy load.
But don’t let this deter you from embarking on this incredible walk. There are ways to make it more manageable. The West Highland Way is a popular route, and one of the conveniences available is the baggage transfer service. This service transports your luggage between your accommodations, allowing you to carry only a daypack with essentials like water, snacks, a map, and extra clothing. While I chose not to use this service to keep my costs low, it can certainly make the trek more comfortable. Keep in mind, however, that if you’re wild camping, you won’t be able to use this service as it requires a specific address for luggage delivery.
You would also pass by pubs, hotels, and resupply points along the way. Thus, you wouldn’t need to pack too much food or water at any one time. I will talk more about resupply points in my stage-by-stage guide below.
Stage-by-Stage + Accommodation Guide
(Bold= the shops/ facilities I have used)
Stage 1: Milngavie to Drymen 19 km
The West Highland Way officially begins at an obelisk in the centre of Milngavie, where you can stock up on supplies at local shops and cafes before setting off. The path to Drymen is well-trodden and clearly marked, offering relatively easy terrain that serves as a good warm-up for carrying a heavy backpack. Throughout this first day, you’re never far from civilization, making it a comfortable start. While some may want to quickly progress to the more rugged sections of the trail, this initial stage provides a gentle introduction before the scenery becomes increasingly spectacular as you continue.
Stage 1 ends in Drymen, a charming village where you’ll find several accommodation options ranging from B&Bs to hotels, as well as a few pubs and restaurants where you can relax and refuel.
Shop:
Milngavie: Tesco Superstore, M&S Simply Food
Drymen: SPAR
Restaurant:
Turnip The Beet, Killearn
Drymen: Skoosh, Alfie & Co Country Coffee House, Drymen Bakery & Deli, Clachan Inn
Accommodations:
Drymen Camping
Various B&Bs in Drymen
Stage 2: Drymen to Rowardennan 23 km
Leaving Drymen, the first notable ascent of the trail is Conic Hill. Though not towering, its summit rewards with sweeping panoramic views of Loch Lomond, a highlight of the West Highland Way.
Descending into Balmaha, you enter an area managed by local camping bylaws, which restrict wild camping without permits from March to September. Balmaha itself is a quaint village replete with cafes and a visitor centre, offering a pleasant stop to refuel and relax.
Continuing along the shores of Loch Lomond, the trail alternates between gentle, flat paths and rugged, rocky sections. Scenic spots like small beaches and clearings beckon for breaks, where you can admire the views or even take a refreshing swim in warm weather. There are a few paid campsites along this stretch with basic amenities, but otherwise, it's a fairly long segment without additional supply points.
This stretch from Drymen to Rowardennan offers a mix of natural beauty, varied terrain, and essential facilities, making it a memorable part of the West Highland Way.
Shop:
Balmaha Village Shop
Cashel Campsite
Restaurant:
Balhama: St Mocha Coffee Shop and Ice Cream Parlour
Accommodations:
Various B&Bs in Balmaha
Milarrochy Bay Camping and Caravanning Club Site
Cashel Campsite
Sallochy Campsite
Rowardennan: Rowardennan Hotel, Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel, en Lomond Bunkhouse
Stage 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan 22 km
Starting from Rowardennan, the path begins with a gentle climb through forested areas. This section can be narrow and rocky, especially along the shores of Loch Lomond, but the effort is rewarded with breathtaking views of the loch and its islands.
After about 7 miles, you’ll reach the Inversnaid Hotel, a nice hotel that is pretty accommodating to hikers even if you’re not staying there. You can grab a pint and warm food at the pub before continuing your hike. From Inversnaid, the trail becomes more rugged and challenging. The path is undulating with some steep and rocky sections that require careful navigation. This part of the trail can be slow-going, particularly when wet, so it’s essential to take your time and watch your footing.
Along the way, you’ll pass Doune Bothy, a basic shelter that can provide respite in inclement weather. This bothy is a fascinating spot to explore and a potential meeting place for fellow hikers. I enjoyed my stay in this Bothy during my West Highland Way.
Inverarnan is home to the historic Drovers Inn and Beinglas Campsite, popular stops for weary walkers. You can find pubs at both sites offering food and drinks.
Shop:
Beinglas Campsite
Restaurant:
Inversnaid Hotel
Inverarnan: Beinglas Campsite, The Drovers Inn
Accommodations:
Bothies: Rowchoish Bothy, Doune Bothy
Inversnaid Hotel
Inverarnan: Beinglas Campsite, The Drovers Inn
Stage 4: Inverarnan to Tyndrum 19 km
The trail then follows the River Falloch, offering a soothing soundtrack of flowing water and relatively easy terrain, with a few waterfalls along the way.
As you progress through Glen Falloch, you’ll enjoy expansive views of the surrounding hills and the meandering river. The path here alternates between woodland and open stretches, with occasional farmhouses and grazing sheep.
Further along, the trail intersects with a path to Crianlarich, a village offering amenities like shops, cafes, and a train station. This detour is useful for resupplying or grabbing a meal. Beyond Crianlarich, the trail leads through rolling hills and open landscapes, providing some of the best walking on the West Highland Way with panoramic views of Ben More and Stob Binnein.
As you approach Tyndrum, the terrain becomes more varied with gentle ascents and descents. The village of Tyndrum offers various accommodation options, restaurants, and a grocery store. It’s an ideal place to recharge, resupply, and enjoy a hearty meal after a rewarding day on the trail.
Shop:
Crianlarich (off trail): Londis Crianlarich
Tyndrum: The Green Welly Stop
Restaurant:
Crianlarich (off trail): The Rod & Reel
Tyndrum: The Real Food Cafe, The Tyndrum Inn
Accommodations:
Crianlarich (off trail): Crianlarich Youth Hostel, Various B&Bs and hotels
Tyndrum: Tyndrum Holiday Park, Tyndrum Lodges, By The Way Hostel & Campsite, The Tyndrum Inn
Stage 5: Tyndrum to Inveroran 14 km
Stages 5 and 6 are definitely my favourite stretches of the West Highland Way with their serene and picturesque scenery. Starting in the quaint village of Tyndrum, the path quickly leads into the peaceful isolation of the Scottish Highlands. Following the old military road, the trail offers comfortable walking and stunning views of mountains like Ben Lui and Beinn Odhar.
Approaching the Bridge of Orchy, a small village with a hotel offers a perfect spot for a break. The bridge provides charming views of the River Orchy. As you move through open moorland and dense forests, the variety of landscapes keeps the journey interesting. The sense of solitude allows for a deep appreciation of the natural beauty. From there, the path continues through the open countryside to the remote Inveroran. There wasn’t much going on in Inveroran, thus most would continue on after stopping for some snacks here.
Shop:
Inveroran Hotel
Restaurant:
Bridge of Orchy Hotel
Inveroran Hotel
Accommodations:
Bridge of Orchy Hotel
Inveroran Hotel
Stage 6: Inveroran to Kingshouse Hotel 15.5 km
The journey from Inveroran to Kingshouse Hotel is one of the most scenic and rewarding stretches of the West Highland Way. Leaving the Inveroran Hotel, the trail soon ascends onto the remote Rannoch Moor. This vast, open moorland is often said to be one of Scotland’s last true wildernesses, offering a sense of isolation and peace.
As you walk across the moor, you are surrounded by stunning mountain views. The rugged beauty of Rannoch Moor, with its boggy terrain and scattered lochs, creates a unique and unforgettable hiking experience.
Approaching the dramatic Glencoe Valley, the trail offers breathtaking views of Buachaille Etive Mòr, one of Scotland's most iconic peaks. A short detour leads you to Glencoe Mountain Resort, a campsite with a cafe and even a ski lift. Further descent into the valley brings you closer to the Kingshouse Hotel, a historic inn that has been welcoming travellers for centuries.
Shop:
Glencoe Mountain Resort
Restaurant:
Glencoe Mountain Resort
Kingshouse Hotel
Accommodations:
Glencoe Mountain Resort
Kingshouse Hotel
Stage 7: Kingshouse Hotel to Kinlochleven 14 km
The highlight of this section is the Devil’s Staircase, a well-graded zigzag path that leads to the highest point on the trail at 548 meters. The climb offers breathtaking panoramic views of the Glencoe Valley and, on clear days, Ben Nevis. Although the ascent can be demanding, it’s manageable with a steady pace and regular breaks.
After the Devil’s Staircase, the path descends gradually into Kinlochleven. This descent is a mix of rocky and grassy paths, entering a lush, wooded area with streams and small waterfalls. Arriving in the charming village of Kinlochleven, you’ll find shops, cafes, and accommodations, making it a perfect place to rest.
Shops:
Co-op Food - Kinlochleven
Restaurant:
Kinlochleven: Leven Bites, The Tailrace Inn, Rice & Chips
Accommodations:
Kinlochleven: Blackwater Hostel Glamping & Campsite; Highland Getaway Inn, Allt-na-Leven Guesthouse, Forest View Guest House
Stage 8: Kinlochleven to Fort William 24.5 km
As you leave Kinlochleven, the path climbs steeply out of the village, offering breathtaking views back towards Loch Leven and the surrounding mountains. This initial ascent can be challenging but is rewarded with panoramic vistas that make the effort worthwhile.
Once you reach the top of the climb, you enter a serene, isolated landscape. The path winds through the remnants of ancient forests and open moorland, giving a sense of the remote beauty of the Scottish Highlands. You follow the old military road, which is well-maintained and easy to navigate, allowing you to fully appreciate the rugged beauty around you.
On a clear day, you can catch your first glimpse of Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest mountain, looming majestically in the distance. This final stretch is relatively gentle, with well-defined paths and bridges crossing over bubbling streams.
Upon arriving in Fort William, you’ll find a bustling town with plenty of amenities. It was interesting to distinguish between the weary hikers, limping around Fort William with their huge backpacks, and the regular tourists. The official end of the West Highland Way is marked by a sculpture on Gordon Square, where many hikers gather to celebrate completing the trail.
SAMPLE ITINERARIES
My 7-day itinerary
Day 0: Caledonian Sleeper- London Euston to Glasgow Central (23:45-07:30)
Day 1: Milngavie to Conic Hill
Breakfast: Milngavie
Tea: Drymen
Day 2: Conic Hill to Sallochy campsite
Brunch: Balmaha
Dinner: camp food
Day 3: Sallochy campsite to Doune Byre
Lunch: Inversnaid Hotel
Dinner: camp food
Day 4: Doune Byre to Tyndrum
Brunch: Beinglas Campsite
Dinner: Tyndrum
Day of 5: Tyndrum to Glencoe Mountain Resort
Brunch: Bridge of Orchy
Dinner: Glencoe Mountain Resort
Day 6: Glencoe Mountain Resort to Kinlochmore
Brunch: King’s House Hotel
Tea: Kinlochleven
Day 7: Kinlochleven to Fort William
Breakfast: Kinlochleven
Tea: Fort William
Fort William to Glasgow, Glasgow to London (1737-2125, 2340-0715)
In hindsight, I definitely prefer hiking for more than 4-5 hours a day as I didn’t have much to do when I arrived at campsites early. If I were to do the WHW again, I would use the 6-day itinerary below. Still, I did not regret using 7 days as it allowed me more time to shoot my video and enjoy the scenery around me.
6-day sample itinerary
Day 1: Milngavie to Conic Hill
Day 2: Conic Hill to Rowchoish bothy
Day 3: Rowchoish bothy to Crianlarich
Day 4: Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy
Day 5: Bridge of Orchy to Kinlochleven
Day 6: Kinlochleven to Fort William
8-day sample itinerary
Day 1: Milngavie to Drymen
Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan
Day 3: Rowardennan to Inverarnan
Day 4: Inverarnan to Tyndrum
Day 5: Tyndrum to Inveroran
Day 6: Inveroran to Kingshouse Hotel
Day 7: Kingshouse Hotel to Kinlochleven
Day 8: Kinlochleven to Fort William
MY PACKING LIST
Sleeping System
Sleeping bag: Naturehike LW180 680g
Sleeping pad: Sea to Summit 480g
Tent: Alpkit soloist 1200g
Electronics
Camera: Nikon Z6 667g
Lens: Z 24-120 f/4 630g
Mic: Joby 70g
Headlamp: Decathlon 90g
Power bank: Verbatim 10000 210g x 2
Capture clip: Peak design 84g
Cables + Plug: USB-C, lightning, watch 150g
Drone: DJI Air 2S 595g
Drone controller 390g
Drone batteries + charger 300g
Tripod: Peak Design Carbon Fibre Travel Tripod 1280g
Action Camera: GoPro Hero 11 153g
Watch: Suunto 9 Peak 60g
Phone: iPhone 12 Mini 175g
Clothing
Baselayer: Montbell 143g x2
Hiking socks: Smartwool 70g x2
Sports bra 100g
Rain pants: Montbell 173g
Underwear 20g x2
Leggings 150g
Wind jacket: Columbia 420g
Insulating jacket: Mammut Rime in Flex Hooded Jacket 330g
Fleece jacket: The North Face 240g
Sandals: Montbell sock on 338g
Thermal leggings: Mountain Warehouse 120g
Trekking boots: Hoka Anacapa
Beanie: Mountain Warehouse 70g
Neck gaiter: Decathlon 40g
Hiking gear
Hiking backpack: Haglof 35L 920g
Filter: Salomon 52g
1.5L soft flask: Hydropak 130g
Rain cover: Wandrd 100g
Spoon: Slowood 15g
Trekking poles: Nature Hike
Dry bag: Sea to Summit 20L 58g
Fanny pack: Syzygy 50g
Toiletries
Toothbrush 5g
Toothpaste 20g
Towel: Sea to Summit 30g
Midge repellent: Lifesystems 120g
Wet wipes 100g
Shampoo and Soap 100g
Head net: Lifesystems 40g
First aid kit: Tick card, meds, leukotape 22g
Food
PowerGel Shots: Cola flavour 60g x3
Dehydrated rice 109g
Meals: Wayfayrer 300g x5
HOW MUCH DID I SPEND DOING THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
There are countless ways to experience the West Highland Way, and your approach can significantly impact your overall cost. I aimed to hike on a tighter budget but allowed myself some flexibility to dine out and use campsite facilities. Here’s a breakdown of what I spent on the trail:
Transport to and from London: £100
Accommodations: Sallochy campsite- £9; Tyndrum By the Way Hostel- £28; Glencoe Mountain Resort- £10; Blackwater campsite- £15
Food: ~£170
Total: £332
LEAVE NO TRACE PRINCIPLES
As always, you should follow the leave-no-trace principles when going on any trails.
Plan Ahead and Prepare
Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
Dispose of Waste Properly
Leave What You Find
Minimize Campfire Impact
Respect Wildlife
Be Considerate of Other Visitors
USEFUL LINKS
Official website: https://www.westhighlandway.org/
MET office: https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/
Mountain weather information service: https://www.mwis.org.uk/
MY FULL EXPERIENCE:
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